Monthly Archives: February 2023

Tuesday, February 28-MELCHIOR ISLANDS, Antarctica 64°19’S 62°57’W

MELCHIOR ISLANDS

NAMESAKE: vice-admiral of the French Navy

DISCOVERY: during the German expedition of 1873/4, charted by French Antarctic Expedition under Charcot

LOCATION: center of Dallmann BayToastions near the center of Dallmann Bay in the Palmer Archipelago along Gerlache Strait at

Anvers Island

• LANDSCAPE: dramatic shoreline of imposing glacier ice cliffs

• FAUNA: various marine life from krill to cetaceans

• LANDMARK: Argentinean base “not Melchior” not currently occupied

Today we enjoyed coffee in our room prior to going out on the Zodiac boat. How exciting to see our first chinstrap penguins and fur seals. And boy oh boy were there plenty of fur seals! Our Zodiac boat driver was working on The Octantis for the first time. Our guide just learned that he would be spending a couple of days in Ushuaia then has been deployed to the sister ship The Polaris traveling up to the Bahamas! He only brought clothes from his home in Argentina for Antarctica. We were all talking to him about what should be on his shopping spree list! When we got near a group of fur seals he was hesitant to go into the bay. He stated that he broke a propeller earlier during the season in this bay, and explained if you were a zodiac driver and you break a propeller, the unofficial rule is you have to buy beer for all of the expedition team. He told us it cost him nearly $300!

Upon returning to our ship, we enjoyed lunch in the world café. And today was chocolate day!! All of the different types of chocolate you could possibly imagine, along with a dark chocolate fountain for dipping fruit and marshmallows in!! We enjoyed lovely pumpkin soup!!

Following lunch we donned our gear for the last time for our last official outing. The Special Operations boat! Wouldn’t you know it, after we’ve been so good at getting dressed we head down to the area where we need to be the boat and we forgot our boxes to listen to the driver. Very nicely, Tom went back to the room. I decided that just walking around the ship in all the gear was exercise in itself!! Plus climbing stairs in the heavy boots is not easy! And I can definitely say I am very thankful that my knees are hardly hurting at all!!

Our fellow passengers are so excited to be on this cruise. It seems like for almost every shore excursion, there are people on the waiting list all geared up sitting there, hoping that somebody doesn’t show up so they can go!! Even though this was one of the last of the trips for this cruise, there were six people waiting to be on our 12 person boat!! Just to get one more ride in!!

Mind you it is snowing outside, there is wind and there’s absolutely freezing. And all these people are anxious to go again even after all these days!!

During the special operations boat ride, we saw several sea caves that we had never seen before. Interesting that there was icicles hanging down from the top of the caves, which made them very unique. We also saw two large icebergs that were that very deep blue color from having the weight of the snow press the air out. They were quite spectacular! Upon returning to our room, we took off all of our gear for the last time. Well, hopefully the last time I hope we don’t need to have the lifevests before we get back to Ushuaia!!

We decided to treat ourselves to a coffee with Baileys in the Living Room to: warm up, relax, review our pictures and write this blog this afternoon!!

We know this is a crazy idea. But at 6 PM we do have an appointment with the future cruise representative on the ship. This has been so incredible and fabulous. We figured we’re already here, we’ve already flown to the bottom of the world. And we have all our clothes. Maybe we could just stay on the boat for the next cruise!!!

As we were sitting here, writing this blog, one gentleman that we have spoken with on the trip just walked by. He’s actually wearing shorts and it is freezing! He is a little crazy and has an iced drink in his hand!!

Next we attended a lecture by the onboard historian on the travels “Belgica – Adrien de Gerlache’s Antartic Dream”. The Belgium explorer who in 1897-9,

attempted to travel to Antarctica. At one point his ship was stuck, frozen in the Antarctic ice. They were frozen in for a year- and they were the first ship frozen into Antarctica and survived! They returned to Belgium and were decorated sailors when they returned!

MAMMALS (there are only two mammals in Antarctica)

1. Seals: Seals are air-breathing and have dense fur coats. Seals have one pup per year and give birth on shore or on ice. All of their feeding takes place underwater and often at night. They are well adapted to aquatic life in polar regions, and their torpedo-shaped bodies are superbly designed for fast underwater travel. There are six species of seals in Antarctica: Weddell, Southern Elephant, Crabeater, Antarctic and sub-Antarctic fur, Leopard, and Ross. During our expedition, we saw mostly leopard, crab eater seals and one weddell on our first day. On Melchior island today we saw fur seals

2. Whales: In Antarctica if you see a dorsal fin, you know it’s a whale as there are no sharks in these waters. More than ten species live in Antarctic waters and are most commonly seen from January through March. Whales spend most of their lives underwater holding their breath, coming to the surface only to restore their oxygen stores. They are carnivorous predators. Types: Orca (killer whales), Humpback, Antarctic Minke, Blue, Fin, Sei, Southern Right, Sperm, Arnoux’s Beaked, Southern Bottlenose, and Hourglass Dolphin. We saw many humpback whales especially while out on the Special Operations Boat, as well as out the Nordic window in our stateroom in Fournier Bay.

Antarctic Botany info only two types of plants:

Enduring Antarctic Hair Grass

Resilient clusters of Antarctic hair grass sprout from the rocky landscape of Antarctica.

These vascular plants are one of only two known species of flowering plants that are native to the southernmost continent. Capable of thriving in harsh, glacial conditions, they are most commonly spotted near the Antarctic Peninsula coastline during summer months. Preferring to grow inside of protected, soil-filled crevices alongside neighboring moss, they are often found close to penguin colonies.

Flowering Antarctic Pearlwort:

During the summer months, uniquely pretty, little yellow flowers blossom from Antarctic Pearlwort (Colobanthus Quitensis). This is one of only two known flowering plants native to Antarctica. Most commonly, they are found growing in tufts along the jagged terrain of the Antarctic Peninsula’s west coast and sub-Antarctic islands where temperatures are milder compared to other parts of the southernmost continent. To help mitigate the effects of the extreme environmental conditions here, they tend to grow closely to one another and nearby other vegetation. They can grow up to 1.9 in (5 cm) in height.

View from our room
Lecture we enjoyed with morning coffee
On the Zodiac
First fur seal siting!
Chinstrap penguins and fur seals!
Currently abandoned Argentina Melchior base
Chocolate desert bar!
Pumpkin soup with an amazing view!
Blue based icebergs
All of the wildlife siting on our cruise this far
Fellow crazy passengers!!!
Antarctic Shag

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Monday, February 27-Fournier Bay, Antarctica

NAMESAKE: admiral of the French Navy

DISCOVERY: during the German expedition of 1873/4, charted by French Antarctic Expedition under Charcot

LOCATION: indenting the NE coast of Anvers Island, immediately W of Briggs Peninsula

• SIZE: L: 8 ml (12.8 km) W: 3 ml (4.8 km)

• POSITION: in the Palmer Archipelago along Gerlache Strait at Anvers Island

• LANDSCAPE: spectacular bay with a dramatic shorelline of imposing glacier ice cliffs

• FAUNA: various marine life from krill to cetaceans

• LANDMARK: rising 2,760 m (9,055ft), Mount Francais is the tallest point on the island

KNOTS:

• One knot = one nautical mile per hour

•Nautical mile • based on longitude and latitude coordinates, one nautical mile is one minute of latitude (1.15 statute mile)

•Dates to 17th century, rope with knots to measure speed by sailors (knot intervals 47 feet / 14.3m)

10 knots = 18 km/hr or 11 mph

20 knots = 37 km/hr or 23 mph

30 knots = 56 km/hr or 34 mph

35 knots = 64 km/hr or 40 mph

40 knots = 74 km/hr or 46 mph

50 knots = 92 km/hr or 57 mph

Tom saw the most amazing view the night before last night at 5:00am. There was a light shinning thru an iceberg – we showed this to several expedition staff. We finally found our answer: during the night the ship shines spot lights on the nearby icebergs to prevent hitting them!! So it was not an aliens – or maybe it was- we are the aliens in Antartica!!

Todays Travler word: FLEXIBILITY!

We woke up early to prepare for the first launch of the zodiacs today- just when we were getting dressed, the captain came over the speaker and said it was not safe to anchor due to winds. So we decided to dress and watch the weather balloon launch scheduled this morning. Just as we were dressed the captain said the weather was not good enough to launch the balloon. So we took off all of our clothes yet again and threw them in the wash!!! When life gives you lemons……… The ships laundry was not crazy busy this early in the morning!!

Next thing you know, captain is back on the overhead system, stating he found a good place for us to launch the toys (zodiac and Special operations boat) of this ship. So we were to be on our zodiac in 30 minutes! Back to the laundry- took out our almost dry clothes. Then we got dressed yet again for our zodiac tour. Getting dressed involves: three layers of pants, socks, two layers of tops, followed by two jackets, buffs, two layers of gloves, outer pants and neoprene boots! And finally a life vest, phone on a strap and for the Special Operations Boats a quiet box. The first time we accomplished this task it took over 35 minutes! We are getting faster now!

After all of this we, were rewarded with a magnificent Zodiac cruise thru humpback whales!! It was Magnificat! I do have to confess that I did get scared when one particular humpback was swimming directly at our boat. However, I quickly learned they were not really interested in us- but rather their lunch of crel in the ocean.

Back to the ship, undress all the layers and dress for a wonderful lunch of wonderful boulabase and salad.

Following lunch- back into our layers we dressed for our Special Operations Boat.

AGAIN, we were treated to even more humpback whales- using the quiet boxes our guide was able to point out the humpbacks all around our boat!! Tom has so many videos!!!

Back to the nice warm ship, (my hands were freezing from the boat ride)- undress and off to the beautiful spa for a soak in the outside hot tub!

This afternoons science lecture is on the history of the earths oceans. Viking employs top scientists in their fields to partner with on their ships. The scientists can do their research and the passengers benefit from top class lectures!

Antartica facts:

• Every once in a great while, visitors to Antarctica—particularly East Antarctica—are treated to an exceptional wonder: a green iceberg. Scientists have learned that these beautiful jade- or bottle-green icebergs are colored for the same reason that seawater is: they contain organic material from the degradation of marine plants and animals. The more organic material, the greener the iceberg.

• Antarctic science generates some of the world’s most cutting-edge research in a multitude of disciplines. The continent is uniquely placed for research in astronomy and physics. And we love that research is going on right on our ship!

Ships spotlight shinning thru a glacier
Beautiful sunrise
All dressed and ready to go!
Whale tale
Boulabase station for lunch!
View of the Hanger deck
Ready for our Special Operations boat ride
Humpbacks!
Icebergs
Icebergs

Sunday, February 26-NEKO HARBOUR, Antarctica

NAMESAKE: Norwegian whaling boat, the Neko, which operated in the area between 1911 and 1924

DISCOVERY: discovered by Adrien de Gerlache during his Belgian Antarctic expedition (1897-9)

LOCATION: Eastern shore of Andvord Bay, approximately 7 miles south of the Errera Channel.

• POSITION: Inlet of the Antarctic Peninsula on Andvord Bay, situated on the west coast of Graham Land.

• LANDSCAPE: famous for its striking glacier, which can sometimes be seen calving ice.

• LANDMARK: Captain Fliess Refuge is an Argentine refuge, it was opened on April 4, 1949 and it is managed by the Argentine Navy. The refuge was destroyed by a storm in 2009, was then rebuilt in 2011, and then destroyed again in the late 2010’s.

We completely enjoyed our morning on the ship! We were able to whale and penguin watch from the bow of this amazing ship! Viking is so wonderful- they provide the science experts mulling around to identify wildlife and help identify species. And if that wasn’t enough I found the espresso bar!! My barista today made me a mochachino and carried it to the Explorers lounge so I wouldn’t burn my fingers-REALLY?? His last job was at Starbucks in Bali and states that this ship is far better!!!

We saw several breeching humpback whales and many pods of swimming penguins!

I am most excited about today’s excursions off ship: First we are scheduled to go out with the scientists to “citizen assist” with some of the off boat science experiments. This was the most amazing adventure thus far! We were joined by with one other couple- (Both MD’s) from Vancover BC. The four citizen scientists went out with two of the PHD’s from the ship to study phytoplankton (a flora of freely floating, often minute organisms that drift with water currents) on in Neko Harbor. We took both aerobic and aerobic samples of the water, along with a timed/trolling water sample. All of the information collected will be preserved and sent to Scripts center in San Diego for RNA analysis. During this Cruise a total of three samples from different Antarctic locations will be collected. Interesting to note- the main funding for this research comes from NASA! We all completely enjoyed our time on this trip!

Next, we scheduled for a submarine ride!

Of course it is literally FREEZING cold outside! And we will once again be wearing all three layers beneath our Viking provided pants and two jackets.

Our Submarine driver “ANDERS” driving Submarine #1- JOHN- (the yellow subs are named after the Beatles!) we went Aprox 215 meters down (705 feet)- the deepest dive of the cruise so far!! We enjoyed seeing Jellyfish, sea stars, sea sponges, anemones, quill stars, different sponges, and some was plants we had never seen before. Way more than we ever expected!!

Then just as our zodiac from the submarine returned to the ship, there was a quite thunderous sound of an avalanche!!! We did not see the avalanche — but experienced the waves!! And again during dinner we could not figure out where the waves were coming from and leaned there was yet another avalanche!!

Yesterday it was super cold on the special operations boat, but totally worth the time on water. Unfortunately we were not looking on the correct side of the boat when the whales breeched next to us. We saw a big splash of water, but no whale.

NAUTICAL TERM – of the day-“DressIng Down”

Thin and worn sails were often treated with oil or wax to renew their effectiveness. This was called “dressing down.” An officer or sailor who was reprimanded or scolded was also said to have received a “dressing down.”

ANTARCTICA NOTES: WEATHER AND CLIMATE

• The mean annual temperature at the South Pole is -58° F (yes, that’s a negative sign!)

• Over 97% of Antarctica is covered by snow, and this has a significant impact on climate all over the world.

• The coldest temperature ever recorded on Earth was -128.6° F on July 21, 1983, near Russia’s Volstok Station in East Antarctica.

• The Southern Ocean’s power to generate the wildest conditions on the Earth still poses a great challenge to modern sailors.

• A variety of different winds blow in Antarctica, making it the windiest place on Earth, and violent blizzards can develop with incredible speed.

• The maximum wind speed recorded in Antarctica was 186+ miles per hour.

• Antarctica has recently experienced its coldest winter ever. Between April and September 2021, a research station sitting on a high plateau in Antarctica registered an average temperature of -78° F. That’s the coldest temperature recorded since record keeping began in 1957, and about 4.5° F lower than the most recent 30-year average.

• The Antarctic Peninsula, where you will be on your expedition cruise, is the wettest part of the continent, and often gets over 27 inches of precipitation a year, 23 inches being snow. We saw snow only on the day we arrived in Antarctica and during our very last landing.

• Antarctica, despite its remoteness, sits at the forefront of climate change research.

Leopard seal
Tom assisting with collecting phytoplankton samples
Our citizens scientist, data collection tool.
Getting in the submarine
Suann in the submarine
Our submarine, Captain
From the bottom of the Antarctic Ocean
Sea star
Our sunset tonight!

End of the evening!!

Saturday, February 25-Damoy Point , Antarctica

NAMESAKE: a French entrepreneur and grocer in Paris, provided funding to French Antarctic Expedition

DISCOVERY: by French Antarctic Expedition 105, under Charcot

LOCATION: W side of Wiencke Island in the 02:04

Palmer Archipelago 22:06

Due to the weather, our itinerary is changing once and sometimes twice a day! Thus forcing EVERYONE to be completely flexible! Thank good ness Viking uses their app to communicate with passengers. Notices are sent to changes in plans especially times for off boat activities.

Today is the day I chose NOT to go with Tom on a Kayak, I have not found them pleasurable!! My plan is to go on a Zodiac landing instead!

Watching the people getting in and out of the zodiac boat down to the kayaks with FREEZING cold water beneath – just does not look like fun.

This morning when we were sailing to Damoy Point Antartica, Tom really wanted to see some whales. We managed to find, the crew setting up for an outdoor BBQ lunch! We saw the beautiful carvings in watermelon and literally large tubs of raw shrimp and marinating chicken!! Freezing our butts off- this did not look appetizing.

Next we stood outside gazing at the beauty and wonder of Antartica. Tom was interested in spotting some whales, as our lecture yesterday afternoon was on identifying the different types of whales. Alas, no whales but penguins swimming in the ocean!! Flexibility is key! Tom was trying to take a photo of the penguins swimming in the water. He gave up and went to mail a post-card. Five minutes after he left our room, I saw and was able to video the penguins swimming just in front of a sheet of ice slush ….

When returned to our room last night we found a surprise post-card picturing penguins on our bed. We learned that viking has paid for the postage and arranged to have the post-card mailed from the “Penguin Post Office” The Port Lockroy, UK’s Southernmost Public Post Office- More information on this post office to follow!

So Tom worth of it able to go on the kayak trip and have a marvelous time! And I was able to go on the zodiac landing and had a marvelous time as well! Enjoy the photos below.:

Antartica fun facts:

• February to March (when we were there!) is prime time for whale watching, and penguin chicks are fledging (losing their downy feathers and growing in waterproof feathers) during this time.

• The number of scientific personnel present in summer in Antarctica is around 4,682; in the winter this number drops to about 1,121.

• Antarctica has no indigenous people, no permanent inhabitants, and is not the sovereign territory of any nation, which makes it unique among the world’s land masses.

• Sailors tend to be superstitious, and whistling anywhere on a ship is considered bad luck. Tradition says that a person whistling is calling up the wind, which means that a storm will result.

• Antarctica is the world’s best place to look for meteorites for two principal reasons. First, the whiteness of the snow and ice makes it easier to see meteorites, and almost any rock you find on the East Antarctic ice sheet had to fall there.

• Antarctica’s largest industry, by far, is tourism. Tourist visitors and crew greatly outnumber scientists and support personnel.

• As of 2012, all cruise ship operators are members of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators ( ), which promotes clean Antarctic travel.

NAUTICAL TERM- of the day-

OVER THE BARREL

The most common method of punishment on board a ship was flogging. The unfortunate sailor was tied to a grating, a mast or “over the barrel” of a deck cannon.

This was our lunch time view!!
Suann going to visit the Penguins!
From the special operation boat ride!

Saturday, February 25-Damoy Point , Antarctica

NAMESAKE: a French entrepreneur and grocer in Paris, provided funding to French Antarctic Expedition

DISCOVERY: by French Antarctic Expedition 105, under Charcot

LOCATION: W side of Wiencke Island in the 02:04

Palmer Archipelago 22:06

Due to the weather, our itinerary is changing once and sometimes twice a day! Thus forcing EVERYONE to be completely flexible! Thank good ness Viking uses their app to communicate with passengers. Notices are sent to changes in plans especially times for off boat activities.

Today is the day I chose NOT to go with Tom on a Kayak, I have not found them pleasurable!! My plan is to go on a Zodiac landing instead!

Watching the people getting in and out of the zodiac boat down to the kayaks with FREEZING cold water beneath – just does not look like fun.

This morning when we were sailing to Damoy Point Antartica, Tom really wanted to see some whales. We managed to find, the crew setting up for an outdoor BBQ lunch! We saw the beautiful carvings in watermelon and literally large tubs of raw shrimp and marinating chicken!! Freezing our butts off- this did not look appetizing.

Next we stood outside gazing at the beauty and wonder of Antartica. Tom was interested in spotting some whales, as our lecture yesterday afternoon was on identifying the different types of whales. Alas, no whales but penguins swimming in the ocean!! Flexibility is key! Tom was trying to take a photo of the penguins swimming in the water. He gave up and went to mail a post-card. Five minutes after he left our room, I saw and was able to video the penguins swimming just in front of a sheet of ice slush ….

When returned to our room last night we found a surprise post-card picturing penguins on our bed. We learned that viking has paid for the postage and arranged to have the post-card mailed from the “Penguin Post Office” The Port Lockroy, UK’s Southernmost Public Post Office- More information on this post office to follow!

So Tom worth of it able to go on the kayak trip and have a marvelous time! And I was able to go on the zodiac landing and had a marvelous time as well! Enjoy the photos below.:

Antartica fun facts:

• February to March (when we were there!) is prime time for whale watching, and penguin chicks are fledging (losing their downy feathers and growing in waterproof feathers) during this time.

• The number of scientific personnel present in summer in Antarctica is around 4,682; in the winter this number drops to about 1,121.

• Antarctica has no indigenous people, no permanent inhabitants, and is not the sovereign territory of any nation, which makes it unique among the world’s land masses.

• Sailors tend to be superstitious, and whistling anywhere on a ship is considered bad luck. Tradition says that a person whistling is calling up the wind, which means that a storm will result.

• Antarctica is the world’s best place to look for meteorites for two principal reasons. First, the whiteness of the snow and ice makes it easier to see meteorites, and almost any rock you find on the East Antarctic ice sheet had to fall there.

• Antarctica’s largest industry, by far, is tourism. Tourist visitors and crew greatly outnumber scientists and support personnel.

• As of 2012, all cruise ship operators are members of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators ( ), which promotes clean Antarctic travel.

NAUTICAL TERM- of the day-

OVER THE BARREL

The most common method of punishment on board a ship was flogging. The unfortunate sailor was tied to a grating, a mast or “over the barrel” of a deck cannon.

This was our lunch time view!!
Suann going to visit the Penguins!
From the special operation boat ride!

Saturday, February 25-Damoy Point , Antarctica

NAMESAKE: a French entrepreneur and grocer in Paris, provided funding to French Antarctic Expedition

DISCOVERY: by French Antarctic Expedition 105, under Charcot

LOCATION: W side of Wiencke Island in the 02:04

Palmer Archipelago 22:06

Due to the weather, our itinerary is changing once and sometimes twice a day! Thus forcing EVERYONE to be completely flexible! Thank good ness Viking uses their app to communicate with passengers. Notices are sent to changes in plans especially times for off boat activities.

Today is the day I chose NOT to go with Tom on a Kayak, I have not found them pleasurable!! My plan is to go on a Zodiac landing instead!

Watching the people getting in and out of the zodiac boat down to the kayaks with FREEZING cold water beneath – just does not look like fun.

This morning when we were sailing to Damoy Point Antartica, Tom really wanted to see some whales. We managed to find, the crew setting up for an outdoor BBQ lunch! We saw the beautiful carvings in watermelon and literally large tubs of raw shrimp and marinating chicken!! Freezing our butts off- this did not look appetizing.

Next we stood outside gazing at the beauty and wonder of Antartica. Tom was interested in spotting some whales, as our lecture yesterday afternoon was on identifying the different types of whales. Alas, no whales but penguins swimming in the ocean!! Flexibility is key! Tom was trying to take a photo of the penguins swimming in the water. He gave up and went to mail a post-card. Five minutes after he left our room, I saw and was able to video the penguins swimming just in front of a sheet of ice slush ….

When returned to our room last night we found a surprise post-card picturing penguins on our bed. We learned that viking has paid for the postage and arranged to have the post-card mailed from the “Penguin Post Office” The Port Lockroy, UK’s Southernmost Public Post Office- More information on this post office to follow!

So Tom worth of it able to go on the kayak trip and have a marvelous time! And I was able to go on the zodiac landing and had a marvelous time as well! Enjoy the photos below.:

Antartica fun facts:

• February to March (when we were there!) is prime time for whale watching, and penguin chicks are fledging (losing their downy feathers and growing in waterproof feathers) during this time.

• The number of scientific personnel present in summer in Antarctica is around 4,682; in the winter this number drops to about 1,121.

• Antarctica has no indigenous people, no permanent inhabitants, and is not the sovereign territory of any nation, which makes it unique among the world’s land masses.

• Sailors tend to be superstitious, and whistling anywhere on a ship is considered bad luck. Tradition says that a person whistling is calling up the wind, which means that a storm will result.

• Antarctica is the world’s best place to look for meteorites for two principal reasons. First, the whiteness of the snow and ice makes it easier to see meteorites, and almost any rock you find on the East Antarctic ice sheet had to fall there.

• Antarctica’s largest industry, by far, is tourism. Tourist visitors and crew greatly outnumber scientists and support personnel.

• As of 2012, all cruise ship operators are members of the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators ( ), which promotes clean Antarctic travel.

NAUTICAL TERM- of the day-

OVER THE BARREL

The most common method of punishment on board a ship was flogging. The unfortunate sailor was tied to a grating, a mast or “over the barrel” of a deck cannon.

This was our lunch time view!!
Suann going to visit the Penguins!
From the special operation boat ride!

Friday, February 24-Prospect Point., Antarctica

We Found my other glove!!!! Met the son (32y/o) of the woman who found it on the beach today, he was in the elevator with us when I was celebrating! He said his mom was yelling at her kids for dropping their gloves!!! I asked him to thank her for me!!

This morning we were to land at Prospect a point at 11am. We are currently navigating thru a very large thru a large iceberg area which is delaying our arrival. Actually we don’t care, the awesome ever changing icebergs of every shape and size are floating by. As well enjoying everything science related to this voyage.

This morning by Lecture by Specialist Pierre Malan: “Endurance” Shackleton tried to be the first person to cross the Antarctic. He failed, but in failing, left us with a tale of leadership, courage and persistence. A story with an almost unbelievable sequel that made the 5th of March, 2022 Antarctic a landmark date in Antarctic history. When the sunken ship was finally found and will remain underwater as a historic monument.

We are where the red dot is!

Next we enjoyed Lecture by Specialist Michael Schrimpf: “Seabird mapping with Cornell and Viking” We learned more about Viking’s partnership with the Cornell Lab of Ornithology from Visiting Research Scientist, Dr.Michael Schrimpf. He spoke about the citizen science program eBird, why it is so powerful for the global study of birds. His PHD thesis was explained and we learners more about the “Merlin” app that I use for bird identification. He’s looking at species distribution in the southern ocean

The weather has changed so many times and so have our activities!! First we were going on a zodiac landing at 2:00pm- then it was changed to 11:00am, currently we are scheduled for a zodiac landing at 6:15pm. With all of these changes- Viking uses their app to notify us of all that is going on. Nonetheless, we experienced one of the most fabulous mornings of our life! The icebergs, glaciers, penguins, seals and actually breath taking views had me FaceTiming with my family and sending videos to friends! Truly a once in a life time unforgettable experience!!! Yes dreadfully cold- and so happy we can just walk back inside the ship to warm up! While sailing thru the icebergs this morning I barely wanted to go into shower – for fear I’d miss the next spectacular view!! We got plenty of use of of Tom’s new binoculars and really were ecstatic to view the wildlife and icebergs!!!!!

This evening we put on all of the clothes we brought and went out on a Zodiac cruise. Oh My Goodness it was amazing and overwhelming!! The beauty, peace and majestic beauty of the water – icebergs – wildlife was just breathtaking!! Even though it was freezing- we kept warm and totally enjoyed the adventure!!

After warming up we enjoyed going to the sushi bar on board for the first time. But wait- first a shot is Sake and old fashion drink- followed by Alaskan king crab legs then finally the sushi. All of this while enjoying the beautiful view of the floating icebergs floating by. Truly magical!!

Unbelievably we had one more adventure scheduled tonight: whisky tasting in The Hide!! To emulate prohibition times when drinking was done in secret- no directions to find

Whiskey tasting (1) Macallan Quest was our first whiskey. Second was Bushmills scotch whiskey aged three years and distilled three times. Third was Knob creek bourbon 9 years. Knob Creek was the name of the creek that end by Lincoln’s childhood home! (Was owned by Jim Beam) under US regulations to be called bourbon -it needs to be 51% corn, has to have an new oak barrel that has been burned inside and produced in the USA. Tennessee whiskey is charcoal filtered. Bourbon name came from bourbon county! Fourth – Laphroiat- quarter cask- “the perfect marriage of peat and Oak” non-chilled filter processed.

We met a very nice man from England who enjoyed the tasting with us. And then another very nice man at our door when we returned to our room who was drunk and Tami g a photo of our penguin sign!!!

Viking and the environment:

Viking cares about the environment. The white smoke we saw emanating from the ship’s funnel is part of the ongoing efforts to protect the environment. To reduce sulfur in the ship’s exhaust, Viking has invested in equipment that effectively “washes” the gases and particulates with a mixture of water and sodium hydroxide.

A warm, damp exhaust with very low sulfur content is then discharged from the funnel. When this clean exhaust comes into contact with colder air, the water vapor condenses and forms a steam cloud over the funnel, much in the way we see our breath on a cold day. With as many scientist, as Viking has on board during our cruise, we are not surprised at this technology.

NAUTICAL TERM

– of the day-LEEWAY

The “weather” side of a ship is the side from which the wind is blowing.

The “lee” side is the side of the ship that is sheltered from the wind. A ‘lee shore” is a shore that is downwind of a ship. If a ship does not have enough “leeway,” it is in danger of being driven onto the shore.

From the bow!
Just another beautiful iceberg
Leopard seal
A lone penguin
From the zodiac
Another beautiful iceberg
Whiskey tasting!
Molting Adele Penguins
Our beautiful Octantis

Thursday, February 23-Horseshoe Island- Antarctica – we are only the second Viking ship to visit this island!

We woke up this morning at the beautiful Horseshoe Island! We enjoyed our breakfast watching the icebergs float past our window!!

Our first activity today was a special operations boat ride into Horseshoe Bay. We really enjoyed seeing the crab eater seals resting on icebergs! We also enjoy the speed of the boat and sort of enjoyed the freezing cold air. We had multiple layers on and it was cold. it was the first time trying out our new ski goggles, but I soon learned that goggles and sunglasses in seawater was just too much, and I was not very effective.

We return to the ship and shed all of our layers. We watched an interesting documentary in the Aula about volcanoes and the effect on the wildlife. We learned a lot. Next we had a beautiful lunch in the world café that you would have fresh cherries on the fruit bar! Next we donned all of our clothes again, and went out for a Zodiac ride onto the shore of the Horseshoe Island. There we were able to watch some of the Adele penguins waddle around and enjoy the views from the mountains. We had a nice time meeting our fellow passengers as we took pictures with our flag of “We made it to Antarctica” that we had made at home. We sent spent about an hour on land and checked out one of the old huts that served as a station for the explores. It is a historical monument as they have left everything in place that was there from when it was in use.

After all of our lectures, about not littering, or leaving anything or touching anything in an arctica, upon returning to the ship, I realized I lost my gloves! Viking is the absolute best! By the time I realized I had lost one and made it to the guest services. One of the gloves had already been found. We will check on the other one later. Thank goodness I brought two pairs because I wasn’t sure what I would really need.

Much to my amazement. The Wi-Fi on the ship is pretty amazing and I have been able to FaceTime with my family.

A few of The Adélie Penguins were on shore and I was able to take some fun cute videos!!

This evening we attended the nightly briefing and learned that tomorrow we will be going to Prospect Point. Our entire schedule has been thrown out the window and we are going whoever the weather allows!! During this briefing we heard a lecture from a woman who was on the on British Antarctic survey station, and her life living on the station through the winter.

Antartica fun facts:

•When a body of ice starts to move downhill under its own weight, it is a glacier.

• When pieces of a glacier break off and fall into the ocean (called calving), they are icebergs.

• The bluest ice you’ll see is ice from the bottom of a glacier, where the ice is the oldest.

• The mountainous spine that is the Antarctic Peninsula, where the Viking Expedition cruises go, used to be connected to the bottom of South America, until a spreading seafloor zone rifted the two land masses apart. This moved the peninsula south toward East Antarctica and opened up the Drake Passage, placing an oceanic barrier between Antarctica and the rest of the world.

• At the exact South Pole, the sun sets one time a year (around March 21) and rises one time a year (around September 21).

• Historically, there are four named oceans: the Atlantic, Pacific, Indian, and Arctic. However, most countries, including the United States, now recognize the Southern (Antarctic) as the fifth ocean. The southern parts of the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Ocean form the Southern Ocean. Its wild waters surround Antarctica and isolate it geographically, biologically, and climatically from the rest of the world.

• Although we think of snow as white, it can often have a pink, red, orange, green, yellow, or gray cast. The phenomenon is cause by snow algae, single-celled organisms that live atop snowfields around the world, including many places in the Antarctic Peninsula. (We saw this colored snow everywhere in Antarctica!)

At once ethereal and majestic, the “White Continent” has inspired explorers and adventurers for centuries. In this icy wilderness, marvel at icebergs glimmering in serene bays and mountains cloaked in white rising from the mainland. These stunning landscapes evoke both utter tranquility as fur seals lounge on a floating sheet of ice, and breathtaking drama as glaciers thunderously calve into the sea. In these cold and nutrient-rich waters, humpback, fin and giant blue whales have been known to greet expedition ships that venture into their habitat.

“castle rock”
Crab eater seals
Adele penguins
Horseshoe island beauty

Wednesday, February 22-Sail the Bellingshausen Sea

We attended a lecture today on all of the cruises and itineraries that Viking offers for ‘23, ‘24 & ‘25, some pretty amazing routes for the future! Followed after lunch a talk from a marine mammal specialist. Chris Croxson.

At 4:00 pm we attended a crossing of the Antarctic circle ceremony- .

Several circles define Antarctica.  The latitude 60°S is the geopolitical boundary. The Antarctic Convergence, the meeting of Antarctica and sub-Antarctic waters, which flows roughly between 50° and 60°S around the globe is the “biological” border.” And finally, at 66°33’46.1” S the Antarctic Circle has its own special significance.

This line is the northern limit at which the summer sun remains above the horizon constantly for 24 hours or in the winter, below. On December 21st, the Antarctic Circle has 24 hours of sunlight and on June 21st, 24 hours of darkness. It is the frontier of deep Antarctica.

When sailors cross the equator for the first time, both now and throughout history, an elaborate, but tongue-in-cheek ceremony is held and if all goes well for the uninitiated “pollywogs” (tadpole) they are baptized “shellbacks” (seasoned sailors).  However, despite  the difficulty of reaching Antarctica, surprisingly there is no known traditional ceremony for crossing the Circle. But that didn’t stop us from celebrating.

We enjoyed a fun ceremony outside. The basis of the ceremony was King Neptune granting permission for first time people crossing the Antarctic circle. The king gave the peasants (aka Pollywogs) , the choice of: being shaved by a pirate, be slapped by a fish, dink a shot of sea water, or worse kiss the chef as part of the rite of passage. I chose to kiss the Chef!! We enjoyed our first time officially wearing our Antarctic gear and trying out all of our cold weather gear!!

The Gentoo Penguins

As a man may look earnestly for the perfect engagement ring, the male Gentoo penguin (Pygoscelis Papua) will search high and low through the rocky shores for a smooth pebble in hopes of wooing a lady bird. Once he finds a special rock which might as well be heart-shaped he offers it to her, and she decides whether to add it to her existing pile of pebbles. This signifies a promising relationship between the two sweethearts, and they will continue to build a nest together to prepare for future eggs. Once an egg is laid, the male and female rotate with each other throughout the incubation period for about 40 days until the newborn hatches.As the third-largest penguin species, Gentoo penguins can stand as tall as 30 in (76 cm) and weigh about 10 lbs. Waddling around the Antarctic pack-ice, they are dressed in black and white with reddish beaks, orange feet and distinct, white patches above their eyes. Strong flippers and slim bodies allow them to dive more than 600 ft deep into the icy ocean and swim up to 22 mph (35 kph).

We had originally booked this same cruise on the Viking Polaris in October 2019. Because our cruise was supposed to sailed on November 9, 2022, We did delay our cruise from November to February due to my knee surgery. This provided a fabulous motivation for Physical Therapy. I knew there would be a challenging step ladder to get into the submarine!!!

Due to the delay, we had plenty of time to read and watch documentaries about this fascinating place called Antartica. I’d like to share some of the interesting things we learned while researching for our trip to Antarctica. Here are some interesting facts about geography and other scientific areas. And from our lecture today.

The Adélie Penguins

Antarctica’s smallest and most ubiquitous penguin species is the Adélie penguin (Pygoscelis Adellae). Most adults stand 28-29 inches (70-73 cm) tall and weigh 9-13 lbs (4-6 kg). Their distinctive appearance includes a black head and back, a pure white chest and a striking white eye-ring. This bird is named after Adèle-Dorothée, the wife of French explorer Jules Dumont-d’Urville (1790-1842), who observed them upon discovering a stretch of coast off eastern Antarctica he called Terre Adélie (Adélie Land). Today, these penguins can still be found across many Antarctic islands. The Adélie is one of two penguin species-besides the emperor that lives and breeds in Antarctica. Adélie penguins thrive on the northern Antarctic pack ice du.ing the winter, and during the warmer months join breeding colonies, or rookeries. To attract females and prepare for the breeding season, males build small stony nests. Somewhere between 7-9 weeks old, chicks leave the colony to go to sea, where they develop swimming skills and hunt for krill in Antarctic waters.

• Antarctica is 5.5 million square miles, about the size of the United States and Mexico combined.

• Antarctica is a continent surrounded by ocean (whereas the Arctic is ocean surrounded by continents).

• Antarctica is the fifth-largest continent and covers the Earth’s South Pole.

• Antarctica has just two seasons: summer and winter. Summer begins in October and ends in March; and winter begins in March and lasts until October.

• Antarctica is considered a desert because it get very little rainfall or snowfall.

•Highest average elevation of all continents (50% -6500-14750) square feet.

•Most windy continent (to 120 mph)

•Coldest continent on earth -130f at Vostok Station 1983

• The average rainfall in Antarctica is 6 inches per year, making it the driest place on earth.

•essentially Antartica is a frozen continent surrounded by sea

• At the geographic South Pole, all the meridians of longitude converge, so you can walk a quick circle around the South Pole when you’re there and enter every time zone in just a few moments.

• At the geographic South Pole, there is no south, east, or west; every direction is north.

• Antarctica has two different kinds of ice: freshwater ice and sea ice. The penguin’s walk so far inland to raise their chicks because they need to go where the ice will not melt during the summer- the chicks would not survive if they did not.

• Polar ice sheets cover 98% of land.

• The Antarctica ice sheets are immense. The ice in the Antarctic potentially locks up about 75% of the world’s fresh water.

• The average thickness of an Antarctica ice sheet is 7,546 feet; the maximum thickness is 15,670 feet.

• The area of sea ice in the summer is 1.5 million square miles; in the winter, 7.3 million square miles.

• 90% of the world’s ice can be found in the Antarctic. Scientists have estimated that if all the ice here were to melt, sea levels could rise by as much as 260 feet.

•The Right whales we so called because they were the right whale to hunt

•Antarctic Treaty- up for review in 2048

• Treaty aimed to:

• Solve disputes over sovereignty

• Establish peace and co-operation in Antarctica

• Promote freedom of scientific investigation

•Sven’s Foyn’s Genius

• Whale-catcher Spes et Fides, 1863

• Explosive harpoon patented, 1872

• “Modern” rorqual whaling now possible

•Carl Anton Larsen quote about the whales – ” tank youse vary mooch and dees is all vary nice and youse vary kind to mes, bot I ask youse ven I am here vy don’t youse take dese vales at your doors, dems vary big vales and I seen dem in houndreds and tousends.”

Lunch?!?!?
Interesting blue foam drinks for the Antarctic Circle passing ceremony!
Our fish offerings to King Neptune!!
Enjoying trying out our Antarctic Gear!!
“King Neptune and his Queen Aphrodite ” who approved us “pollywogs” to cross the Antarctic Circle!
My blue nose and prize for kissing the King and crossing the Antarctic Circle!!

Tuesday, February 21-Sail the Drake Passage

Last night was very interesting sailing thru The Drake passage. We’ve decided that we are not experiencing the extreme “Drake shake”, but rather a nice steady roll. Our ships Captain was going at top speed (21 knots) most of the night, trying to stay in front of a large storm with high winds. This morning we could see the dark clouds behind us.

First off the morning we attended a mandatory IAATO lecture on the rules and regulations regarding our time on land in Antarctica. Basically, we are not allowed to take or remove anything from the continent. Nothing is allowed to touch the ground except our boots- which will get sanitized before and after each landing.

Next, we attended the mandatory submarine, kayak, and zodiac lecture. Again reviewing the rules and regulations regarding our off ship activities.

Upon returning to our our room we worked with our room stewards to identify the appropriate jackets and pants for our excursions. Next, we brought all of our outer clothing (not provided by Viking) that we plan on wearing off the ship for biosecurity check- hats, gloves, and buffs. Our items were inspected and vacuumed for any possible contaminates to the pristine continent.

Following a light delicious lunch at the Nordic cafe- we returned to The Alua for a wonderful educational video on the King Penguins of Antartica! Tom is feeling the effects from a dose of motion sickness

Medicne, so we returned to our room. I enjoyed watching a live-stream of the science that is taking place during our cruise.

This cruise there are two scientists from Cornel, three scientists/lecture specialists on birds, mammals, plants and weather of Antartica, one member from the “seed vault”. There will be several science experiments taking place during this cruise.

Prior to this trip I joined the “Viking Expedition Antartica” Facebook group. This group planned a get together in the Explorers lounge to meet and greet, along with celebrating MardiGras as today is “Fat Tuesday”!! We planned for this in advance and brought some

Beads from home!! What a pleasant surprise, the Mardi Gras party was. And most unexpectedly, I found myself sitting with eight engineers, four of which were women! We had a very nice cocktail party, met new friends with like interests and enjoyed our time.

Next, as Tom signed up to kayak, we went down to the hanger for Tom to pass the fitness test for the kayaks.

This evening we attended the “Captains welcome” party in The Aula prior to the evening briefing for tomorrows activities.

This was a very busy sea day! Ending with a lovely dinner at the Italian restaurant Manfred’s. Following dinner, we went down to “The Hide” for a cocktail. This bar is at the lowest point of the ship with a window. Earlier in the day we visited here to watch the waves, as the sunset is very late we’ve enjoyed drinks with some of our new friends. The sea began to get increasingly rough as we sat in the bar. the finale was when a big wave hit and all of the booze bottles hit the floor. It was interesting that they was no bar staff standing at the bar when the bottles fell. So, very helpful passengers picked them all up and had them back on the bar before the servers returned!! Interesting to note that none of the bottles broke.

The Aula-photo below

The ship has world’s most advanced venue for learning at sea. The Aula is a panoramic auditorium inspired by the University of Oslo’s famed ceremonial hall, the former venue for the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony. This space is used for lectures, daily briefings, yand films, featuring an 4K laser-projected panoramic screen which can retract to expose floor-to ceiling windows and 270° views.

Our room! I brought the sign with us!
Tom getting his boots!
Our outdoor gear in the drying closet
Captains welcome party
Sunset in The Drake
The four women engineers at the marti gras party!
The Aula atthe University of Oslo Norway